Juergen The Great

Thanks to Claire from Enchant and Dorm that warned me about the opening in Lehmann Maupin gallery in Chelsea, NY, of Juergen Teller's latest work.

The opening took place last Thursday, February 7th and the place was packed, what was no surprise. The surprise was to see Teller himself, and Olivier Zahm, Michael Stipe... it was amazing to see so many indi stars all in the same room. Of course i didn't take any pictures of them... but if I tell you the truth I was longing for it.
Here comes Youtube to the rescue...

The show collects the latest work of Juergen Teller: ads for Marc Jacobs (the Posh picture is there and watching it so big and so close is quite interesting), pictures of Harmony Korine taken by Juergen for Purple magazine and the images he took in Ukraine that he was commissioned for to appeared at the Ukrainian Pavilion at the Venice Biennale 2007.

The same day of the opening I randomly bought the latest issue of the journal (it had a Teller photo in the cover so i guess i was in a Teller mood already) where the whole story about these images in Ukraine is told. It's funny because the magazine complements the exhibition like a tailored made glove: they should sell it at the gallery or at least having it for people to look at.

Another note I would like to add is my hands down for Lara Stone who models in almost all the pictures of Juergen while in Ukraine. They are images that need an open-minded and understanding person as Lara to get the point of it all and to make a good image out of it. She is a Top, for real.

Photos I took...

Os Acordais de Esto?

Este post esta dedicado a mis paisanos de lengua española que son los que se van a echar una risas viendo este video... os acordais? Fue el video ganador del Festival de Cine Independiente y de Culto (CINEMAD) del 2003.

No tiene nada que ver con moda pero una sonrisita siempre se agradece ... nuestro machito español en todo su apogeo... ** aviso, no para gente sensible y sin sentido del humor!

MI SEñORA de Juan Rivadeneyra

Unfortunately this post will be enjoyed only for Spanish-speaking people... sorry there's not a good translation for this video... It has nothing to do with fashion anyway, it is just a video that won one of the most important Independent Short-Film Festivals in Spain in 2003... and it's hilarious. It represents the "macho español" at its highest levels of testosterone...

Madonna Did It First

I used to be the biggest Madonna fan. Actually the first "public dance" I did (I was 8 years old when I did a school performance with my friends Etel and Isabel in front of our moms and all the school, choreography by ourselves!... I wish I had a video to show you! you would laugh out loud...) was with her song "Like a Prayer". To put it plain: I wanted to be like her (although my mom kept throwing the stockings that I, with a lot of care, was breaking and making holes to. Being 8 and independent was something my mom couldn't understand.)

Unfortunately the years passed by and Madonna became such a media product that i stopped thinking of her for good.

Then one day (yesterday), I was looking for some images to reference an upcoming editorial when several images of her came up... I have to admit that I was surprised and delighted to be remembered her wearing in the 80's and early 90's "hot" looks of today...

Madonna and her punk hair cut / Alice Dellal bringing the cut back

Latex = Madonna did it first

------------------

Madonna fué durante toda mi infancia mi cantante número uno, tanto es así que el primer "espectáculo" que hice en el colegio fue con su canción "Like a Prayer". Yo tenía unos 8 años y prepare la coreografía con mis amigas Etel e Isabel... era una de esas fiestas de colegio, aun me acuerdo, que pena que no tenga un video para enseñarlo porque es digno de ver!.
El caso es que Madonna se fue volviendo más y más comercial hasta volverse insoportable y de la noche a la mañana decidí no prestarle mayor atención.
El otro día estaba viendo unas fotografias de inspiración para otro edito que estoy preparando cuando me encontré estas fotos de Madonna llevando (y estamos habando de los 80 y principios de los 90!) prendas y peinados que son lo más "in" de este momento, el que estamos viviendo ahora mismo... punk y látex.

I Should Pay More Attention

When I posted about blog. mode: adressing fashion, I didn't pay enough attention to realize I was posting about an exhibition, not an actual blog.... my friend Ainne advised me that it was an amazing show at the MET and to my shame I have to admit I didn't trust her until I went to the MET myself... Et voilá, what an amazing exhibition indeed!.

Blog.mode: addressing fashion is located at the Costume Institute inside the Metropolitan Museum in New York. The pieces were chosen under three categories: Technology, Deconstruction and Draping.
I had the fortune of arriving on time for a guided visit... it's funny I always fought against "guided" anything as I think being "guided" means they will only tell you what they want you to know instead of the whole picture and "behind the scenes". But I'm realizing more and more that you actually need someone to explain you at least what's going on because enjoining an exhibition just reading the little notes the museum posts is not such enjoyment really and you end up thinking, what the hell is going on.... and bored.

So there was this very sweet old lady who took us under her wing and I learned really interesting things, like...

** Have you ever wondered why the costume samples from centuries ago that Museums have are always so tiny?

You might think is because people back then was tiny but that's not the exact reason.... When a person is big, or "normal" weight, his/her clothing can be used and reused and make new dresses for younger generations, it can be passed from one person to the other, from one period to the other (grand moms to moms to daughters), doing the necessary alterations.
But when a person is tiny its clothing won't be able to be used and be altered as there is not fabric enough to do so... For this reason the costumes that serve as perfect examples of its period are very tiny because are the ones that were never altered.

The concept of the exhibition is quite interesting and it is even more for us fashion bloggers: Blog. mode: adressing fashion's curators wanted to open a blog so viewers could comment on what they were looking at. Fashion is probably the only Art that is truly democratic, everyone is able to comment on it because everyone dresses everyday, everyone is in contact with fashion on a daily basis.
When one attends an Art exhibition has the feeling that needs to read or study before being able to comment, no one feels in the mood of talking of a Picasso if it's the first time is been viewed. But with fashion is different and you, me and my mom can have a very curated opinion on a garment.

For that reason the blog was created and 10 computers were located at the center of the show where you can go and sit and comment on the pieces around you.

The show will be on until April 13th, don't miss it, is absolutely wonderful.









all images taken by me, surprisingly you could take picture if not flash was involved.

Our Love for Mario Sorrenti

When I posted about the Mario Sorrenti's interview in Vogue Homme International it was some kind of a fun post to speak of one of my favourite fashion photographers and one of the hottest, taking advantage that some gossiping was involved: the fact that the pictures were taken by his then-girlfriend Kate Moss.

Two days ago someone named L. posted three beautiful and very insightful comments in a row... somewhat it reminded me some other picture i saw of the Italian photographer with his family taken by Kate Moss again.

The picture [left] was published in the winter 07-08 issue of self service magazine and I guess i was waiting for the right moment to talk about it.

In the picture is Mario with his sister Vanina, his brother Davide, who very sadly passed away in 1997, and a third man that unfortunately I have no idea who is.

I don't know if Sorrenti reads blogs, I hardly believe he does, but if he ever reads this post I hope he forgives me such gossiping here... but it was just too beautiful to skip the share.

" I dated Mario, back in Jr. H.S. 104 in NYC and the sex was sooooo incredible. Looking back the year was 1987 we attended Jr.H.S. 104 in NYC. [...] He used to wear these thick funky glasses but in some sort of weird way they made him look hot. We used to hang out with Shawn Wayans, later when we all went to Humanities H.S. together. We had some great times back then. And as always sex with him was creative... [...] So I guess looking back we were a bunch of sexual teens... It was so much fun........ "

There is also a very interesting feature in the New York Magazine where the same names and places pop up, so it couldn't come handier.

photo by Davide Sorrenti, appeared in i-D

--------------------------

El post que publiqué sobre la entrevista a Mario Sorrenti que salió en el ultimo número de Vogue Homme International y que le acompañaba una foto que Kate Moss había sacado de él cuando los dos estaban todavía juntos, fue para publicar algo divertido y asi hablar de uno de los fotografos de moda cuyo trabajo más respeto.
Nunca pensé que tal foto despertaria nada en nadie, (a pesar de lo obvio, señoras) pero hace unos dos días una chica publicó nada más y nada menos que tres comentarios, de seguido, sobre cierta vida común que ambos tuvieron en común... los comentarios me trajeron a la memorio otra foto, tomada por Kate Moss tambien, y que aparecio en el ultimo numero de la revista self service.
En la foto aparece Mario con su hermana Vanina, su hermano Davide, que por desgracia murió en 1997, y un tercer hombre que no se quien es...
Dudo mucho que Sorrenti lea blogs, y menos aun este, pero si lo hace espero que me perdone el cotilleo que me traigo entre manos.
El caso es que que no podia evitar el publicar los comentarios porque me traen a la mente el NY de los años 90, un Nueva York que no paro de oir a todo el mundo que fue de los mejores...
En un articulo en la revista New York se habla exactamente de las mismas personas que sale en el comentario de Leslie, y los mismos sitios que ella menciona.
En cualquier caso, muchas gracias a Leslie por compartir semejantes recuerdos...
[La carta esta arriba, el ingles es facilito pero si necesitais traducción no dudeis en pedirmela.]

NYFW aw08.- Patrik Rzepski

Patrik Rzespki backstage. Image by Alex Wright

Fashion Week AW 08 is over... now let's talk about it.

Sorry for the lack of "immediacy" but it takes me some time to digest the shows and being able to talk about them...

The first (and best show) I attended this season was Patrik Rzepski' s in Chelsea.
I'm a big fan of Patrik: in a city like NY where the average designer is as safer as it takes, Patrik push the boundaries and his creations are interesting and "good looking".

The location chosen was some art space/art gallery, very big, very white, in Chelsea New York. The crowd was noisy and very "modern"; almost everyone was wearing black.

I run into some friends and that surprised me because a) i didn't know they were invited, and b) it's always nice not to be alone in a show, having someone with who commenting the going ons of the evening.

Being this my first show of the season (problems with my photo shoot didn't let me go to more shows) I was eyes wide open.

Although the show started 45 minutes late, the waiting was worth it.

Black color abounded, as it's the norm in Patrik, and he mixed it with plaid lumber jack in some beautiful instances.

If there is something I went nuts for in Patrik's creations were his zip-up and very loosy tights (you know i love them!): they look trashy and elegant all at the same time, difficult task and beautiful result.

" Back to nature boys, Vasser girls too
Watch what you say, or think, or do
Continental style strasse girls might
But you know exactly if it's wrong or right "

- Roxy Music

(from the show program)

Thanks Alex Wright from Dripbook for sending me these amazing images, which are way much better than they ones I took!.

Patrik Rzepski

----------------------------------

Ahora que la semana de la moda en Nueva York ha acabado, vamos a hablar de ella... es curioso lo rapido que trabajan algunos bloggers a la hora de comentar desfiles, yo necesito un tiempo de asimilación.
El primer desfile de esta temporada, y el mejor de los que yo pude atender (ya sabeis mi problema con mi edito, me fue imposible hacer otra cosa que no fuera la produccion de dicho editorial), fue el de Patrik Rzepski en Chelsea. Desde que descubrí este diseñador he sido una gran fan de el porque hacer colecciones interesante y chulas es algo de lo que brilla por su ausencia en esta ciudad.
La localización fue en una galeria de Arte en Chelsea, en Nueva York, muy grande, muy blanca. Y toda la gente que assitio el evento, muy "moderna": practicamente todo el mundo vestido de negro.
Me encontre con varios amigos una vez alli, lo cual me sorprendio porque no tenia ni eda de que estaban invitdos y porque oye, siempre se agradece el tener compañia para hablar de lo que esta pasando, y para cotillear.
El show empezó con 45 minutos de retraso, que es norma en fashion week al fin y al cabo, pero merecio la pena la espera.
La coleccion estaba compuesta de prendas negras casi en su totalidad, exceptp algunos cuadrod dispersos aqui y alla.
Sin lugar a duda fueron las medias, grandes y caidas, lo que mas me gustaron (ya sabeis cuanto me gustan las medias que Patrik diseña!), con un toque trashy y elegante al mismo tiempo.
Las fotos son todas de Alex Wright de Dripbook que me dejo usarlas en lugar de las mias que las pobres daban pena...

Holly Bee!

Speaking with a stylist the other day about upcoming designers, she was telling me how difficult is to "accept" invitations for fashion week when you don't know the designer, when is someone new and therefore nothing has been written yet about him. It's difficult because the schedule is already too tight during fashions week and you don't want to end up in an amateur show feeling that you are wasting your time.
In the other hand, she was saying, we are the ones to support those designers, to "discover" them to the world, and so it's always a bit of a mental straggle to decide whether or not going or not going.
Then i told her about my experience with Ohnetitel whose first fashion show I attended and the same, I wasn't sure whether or not I should go... and how amazed I was, and happy, when I saw the collection, the people and met Diane Pernet by the way! That day I kind of learned the lesson; just go and see.
The same kind of experience she had with Jolibe... Joel Diaz is the head behind such a pure lines, no wonders he assisted Helmut Lang for 5 years. (a designer for who the girls behind Ohnetitel worked as well!).

This is part of his presentation for spring-summer 08




----------------------------

El otro dia hablaba con otra estilista sobre la dificultad de aceptar invitaciones a desfiles de diseñadores noveles de los que nadie ha hablado aun: el calendario de la fashion week es ya de por si super ajustado y no quieres acabar en algo amateur que te haga perder el poco tiempo que tienes para ir a un sitio u a otro.
Es dificil tambien, ella me decia, a nivel personal porque al fin y al cabo somos nosotros, estilistas y editores de moda, los que tenemos que"descubrir" y apoyar a la gente nueva.
Yo le conté mi experiencia con la primera colección de Ohnetitel a la cual yo tampoco sabia muy bien si ir o no ir hasta que decidí hacerlo... y la sorpresa y alegria que me lleve no fue pequeña cuando vi su coleccion, los absolutamente magnificos diseños, y la gente que fue, incluida Diane Pernet a la que tuve oportunidad de saludar. Desde entonces aprendí la lección: hay que ir y ver, y si no te gusta, te vas y punto.
Entonces ella me dijo que lo que a mi me habia pasado con Ohnetitel a ella le paso con Jolibe...
Joel Diaz es la persona detras de lineas tan puras, se nota que fue asistente de Helmut Lang durante 5 años (que por cierto, las chicas de Ohnetitel trabajaron para Helmut también!).
Arriba su coleccion para primavera-verano 08.

Quote of The Day.- Juergen Teller

Juergen, when conducting a fashion shoot do you prefer working with models or 'real people'? (Rachael OPP, London)

Juergen Teller: It changes all the time. They are all real people to me.

-----------------

Juergen, cuando trabajas en un editorial de moda prefieres trabajar con modelos o con "gente normal"? (Rachael OPP, Londres)

Juergen Teller: Varía con el tiempo. Para mí todos son gente normal.

source

About NYFW This Year and Me

Some people is asking me how come I'm not posting anything about NY fashion week so let me explain it very quick...

Although I have been invited to some shows during the last three days (Mandate of Heaven, The Accademy of Art, Alexander Hercovitch, Alisha Trimble, Araks, Alexander Wang, Ohnetitel, Ports 1961 and The Blonds), due to my photo shoot for Celeste and all the problems involved in producing a photo shoot during fashion week (more here) I have had time zero to attend any show or to flip through style.com. Besides, very capable bloggers are commenting about them so all i can do is enjoining their posts myself too.

In any case, fashion week is still going on and there are more shows I've been invited to attend so i'll do my best to tell what's happening and what's not.
Alex from Dripbook offered me to cover fashion week for them and so i will. I will post my experience there but will post some lines in bobble-bee with a link so you can all can know where and when to go.

Many thanks for your lovely comments. :)

-----------

Mucha gente me esta preguntando como es que no estoy escribiendo nada sobre esta fashion week, como es que estando aqui todavia no he dicho nada al respecto...
El caso es que a pesar de haber estado invitada a algunos shows durante los pasados tres dias de fashion week (Mandate of Heaven, The Accademy of Art, Alexander Hercovitch, Alisha Trimble, Araks, Alexander Wang, Ohnetitel, Ports 1961 y The Blonds), el hecho de estar produciendo un edito para Celeste y todo lo que ello conlleva cuando es fashion week (para mas info aqui) no me ha dado ni un minuto libre y los he dejado pasar, no he tenido tiempo siquuiera a abrir el ordenador y empaparme de style.com...
De todas formas todavia queda mas fashion week y algunas invitaciones mas, asi que ire escribiendo sobre ello.
Este año Alex de Dripbook me pidio que hiciese el coveraje para ellos asi que mis posts los pondre alli aunque lo avisare desde aqui con un link y asi no tendreis problemas de hayarlo.

Y mil gracias a todos los que me han mandado su apoyo :)

The Importance of Doing Exercise

For the past few weeks my life has been a whirl of things going on. I haven't had time to even eat some days, let alone to do some exercise...

Rick Owens: "Pole Dance Project" courtesy of Un Nouveau Ideal

When I went to Mandate of Heaven last week to pull some clothing for my photo shoot, Carissa, the designer, wasn't there and so her boyfriend helped me with the samples. When I asked him where she was (it was almost 9.30pm and I knew her fashion show was happening the very next day) he said: "she went to work out"...

I got really impressed and inspired and it kept me thinking about how smart is for someone really busy to stop everything to dedicate some time to exercise.


There has been many "changes" in the fashion world, or to be more precise, in some fashion designers, thanks to exercise: Marc Jacobs anyone? and also John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Rick Owens, Donna Karan...

There are other designers whose "sports" has been less marketered and we all know a little less about it like BLESS girls Desiree and Ines' Aikido, something they both started on a hot summer in Berlin and continued doing ever since. Or Yohji Yamamoto's Karate, a practice that the designer has been doing for years and if you didn't know it, he's the Chairman at the Karatenomichi World Federation.


Yohji Yamamoto (left)


" Stretching! I believe in that totally. I stretch in the tub, I stretch when I'm standing up, I stretch talking on the telephone... whenever you're doing anything, if you can do something else-- stretch! "

Diana Vreeland.

DV. page 188

Exercise really keeps you young and full of energy, is a real bust, better than chocolate!
I wonder why is so hard to remember in crazy moments of stress...

Diana Vreeland

------------

Lo de que "todo viene de una vez" que me lo digan a mi que he tenido las dos semanas más liadas de toda mi vida.
He tenido momentos estresantes en mi vida pero no tantos dias de seguido y he llegado a tener algunos en los que me he ido a la cama sin a haber comido en todo el día, y menos de poder hacer ningun ejercicio.... no se lo deseo a nadie!
El desfile de Mandate of Heaven fue la semana pasada y un dia antes me pase por el showroom para recoger alguna ropa para el photo shoot que he estado preparando para Celeste.
Cuando llegue, casi las 9.30 de la noche, ella no estaba asi que fue su novio quien me ayudo con todo. Me sorprendio que Carissa no estuviera asi que le pregunte a Ariel que era de ella: "se ha ido al gimnasio"... me dejó de piedra!
Imaginate el dia antes de selectividad, del examen del carnet de conducir, de una oposicion... y en lugar de quedarte en casita incando el codo sojes y te vas al gimnasio... y eso es exactamente lo que deberiamos hacer!
En el mundo de la moda muchos han sido los diseñadores que han sufrido drásticos y maravillosos cambios gracias al ejercicio como son Marc Jacobs, John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Rick Owens, Donna Karan...
Hay otros cuyas actividades fisicas han sido menos vanagloriadas por la prensa y sabemos menos de ellas, como el Aikido que practican Ines y Desiree de la marca BLESS, o el Karate de Yohji Yamamoto, que por cierto es dire del Karatenomichi World Federation.

" Estiramientos! Creo en ellos absolutamente. Me estiro en la bañera, cuando estoy de pie, cuando estoy hablando por teléfono... si no estas haciendo nada y puedes hacer algo- Estírate! "

Diana Vreeland.

DV. página 188

Si lo dice la Vreeland habra que hacer caso.... que el ejercicio te sube la adrenalina más que el chocolate!

New Yorkers I Need Your Help!

I'm looking for Creeper boots... I went to Trash & Vaudeville but don't have them (!!) only creeper shoes.


I remember there's an area of Gothic stores around 14th St with 6th Ave?, do you know other places where i can look for them?
I found this picture of dear Olsen wearing something similar... and images of some models I'm looking for ...


Thanks!!

you can email me or posting a comment... thanks thanks thanks

Fashion Week is Heaven. Fashion Week is Hell.

Days of stress. Fashion week around the corner and I'm booked to style an editorial for Mexican magazine Celeste with German photographer Claudia Grassl.

Fashion week can be the best moment to prepare an editorial in NYC, or the worst.- the best because the BEST models are in town so you can have the chance of working with them for your shoot. The worst because all the good girls are booked to do fashion shows and it's basically impossible to do a casting.

Another reason for which one should avoid fashion week to do a photo shoot is the fact that the most important showrooms are all closed dealing with the shows and so is IMPOSSIBLE to get any clothing. Only contacts will help you to get what you want... but those contacts work in fashion, therefore they are normally working their ass off with no time to deal with you.

getting the looks ready

Claudia and me are running like crazy these days all over Manhattan and Brooklyn to find locations, clothing, models... I have to say though that I'm getting some really nice clothing so far... remember those amazing zip-up Patrik Rzepski's stockings I talked about? I was able to get them for the shoot! I'm very happy about that... :) more news very soon.

--------------


Estos dias ando de arriba para abajo, estresada pateandome la ciudad y haciendo llamadas cada hora. La fashion week la tenemos a la vuelta de la esquina y aparte estoy preparando un edito para la revista mexicana Celeste con la fotografa alemana Claudia Grassl.

Preparar un edito durante la fashion week puede ser de lo mejor, o de lo peor: por una parte tenemos a las mejores modelos en la ciudad con lo que la oportunidad de poder tenerlas es mayor que normalmente, mientras que por otra, al ser fashion week todas las chicas andan de castings para los desfiles y no hay manera de conseguir a nadie.

Por otro lado esta el tema de los showrooms que por estas fechas cierran para preparar los desfiles asi que cuesta dios y ayuda el conseguir ropa, hay que tirar de contactos pero los contactos obviamente trabajan en la industria de la moda y ellos mismos andan como locos y sin tiempo para dedicarte a encontrar ropa para tu editorial. Un infierno.
Pero bueno, la verdad que no me puedo quejar, me hubiese gustado oder tener acceso a mas ropa pero he ido consiguiendo cosas muy chulas como las medias con cremallera de Patrik Rzepski de las que hable en la pasada fashion week.

Me & My Bag

I've been tagged 4 times so I couldn't escape...

5 lovely ladies, Rumi from Fashion Toast (although she tagged me to speak abut me not my bag...), The Glossy Editor, Sage & Allecra from 24.7 and the loveliest Dreamecho, asked me to reveal what my bag has inside...

I took a picture of myself carrying my bag which is no other than a funny pack that my dearest Gia gave me time ago.

I was always with back pains because of the big bags i used to carry all day long, so she decided the smallest the bag, the better my back.


A.- a camera. because you never know when the inspiration might show up.

B.- a book. because you need a pastime to spend the long hours spent in the subway. Currently reading The Flowers of Friendship, letters written to Gertrude Stein.

C.- gloves. It's freezing cold in the city these days.

D.- keys and pens. For obvious reasons.

E.- my cell and headset. I hate to have the cell directly on my ear when I speak on the phone, i can feel the microwaves and my brain burning, i swear. So i couldn't live without my headset!

F.- my vintage purse. To carry my money, lip balm and business cards.

G.- my bag. To keep in place all written above.

Gummo

The movies of Harmony Korine are not the easiest to swallow but they are, for the same reason, the most interesting and stimulating.

Someone told me once that Korine's films reminded him of Vice magazine; they both use "easy subjects" to shock the audience such sexual taboos, violence and marginal people.

I can agree on that but i find a big difference; the "poetry" of it all; Harmony's films are truly poetic, the music, the characters, everything has some kind of purity that I don't find on Vice; I personally find Vice a punch in the stomach. Korine's stories are a punch in the soul.

One of my favourite movies was Julien Donkey-Boy, but the one which wardrobe is definitely something to talk about is 1996's Gummo, a movie that the great Werner Herzog called "a masterpiece".

Gummo is the the follow up in the lives of a bunch of kids from Xenia, Ohio, where a tornado during the 70's left the town in ruins and whose inhabitants didn't quite recover from the event.
Kids are bored and apathetic, what leads them to spend their time in the best way they can: these include sniffing glue, killing cats, having sex, riding dirt bikes, listening to black metal, and meeting a cavalcade of quirky, bizarre, and scary people.

Chloë Sevigny was the Costume Designer for this movie and her work is superb.
Contemporary movies "cancel" very often the work of costumes designers because everyone has a very clear understanding of contemporary clothing; they live with it.

But people don't realize that each person dress different and that is what makes him / her the person he / she is. It's the job of a costume designer to create a character through clothing and put on an actor what the character would wear. Therefore the less you notice the wardrobe, the better the job is done because it means you know the character wearing that clothing.

So it's quite difficult to make a contemporary wardrobe interesting and fun, but that's exactly what Chloë got with this movie.





---------

Las películas de Harmony Korine no son precisamente las más fáciles de asimilar, pero por el mismo motivo son, a mi modo de ver, unas de las las más interesantes del cine contemporáneo.

Una vez alguien me dijo que las películas de Korine le recordaban en cierta manera a la revista Vice, que ambas recurren a temas "demasiado fáciles" para prococar al espectador, como son la violencia, los tabues sexuales y la gente marginal.

En cierta manera es verdad pero creo que la diferencia estriba en la "poesía", de la que carece totalmente la revista y de la que le sobra a las películas: donde una te pega un puñetazo en el estómago, la otra te lo da en el alma. Básicamente.

Una de mis pelis favoritas es Julien Donkey-Boy pero para hablar de vestuario tenemos que hablar de Gummo, que el gran director alemán Werner Herzog llegó a tildar de "obra maestra".

La pellicula narra las peripecias de un grupo de chavales del pueblo de Xenia, en Ohio, Estados Unidos, donde un tornado duranto los 70 dejó al pueblo con la mitad de habitantes y en un estado de lo más desalentador.
Chloë Sevigny diseñó el vestuario de esta pelicula e hizo un trabajo fascinante. Siempre es complicado para los diseñadores de vestuario diseñar para una pelicula contemporanea porque la ropa pasa desapercibida por todos (cuantos Oscars se dan a peliculas que no sean de época?) ya que todos tenemos pleno entendimiento de ella; la vivimos dia a dia.
Elegir la ropa adecuada para crear un personaje y a la vez hacerlo interesante es dificil y puñetero. Pero ahí tenemos Gummo, en el que cada uno de los personajes lleva lo mas estrafalario que te puedes imaginar, siendo precisamente eso lo que te esperas, y no te esperas de cada uno de ellos.

A Japanese Toga

Japanese designer Yasuko Furota is the great mind behind the label Toga.
Her first collection was created in 1997 but it wasn't until 2001, during Japan Fashion Week in Tokyo, that she held her first fashion show.

In 2007 the French association ANDAM (Association Nationale pour le Developpement des Arts de la Mode) awarded her work and she received 20,000 euros from Japanese store Beams to prepare her summer 2008 collection. The collection can be seen in her website but because I don't like to speak of summer when it's winter, here is her beautiful A/W 07-08 collection.



-----

Yasuko Furota es la cabecita pensante y creadora de la firma japonesa Toga. Y aunque creó su primera colección en 1997, no será hasta el 2001 en el que Yasuko podrá ver su primer desfile, que tuvo lugar durante la Japan Fashion Week en Tokyo, porque desfile y colecciones por desgracia no son todo uno.
El año pasado Furota fue galardonada con un premio de 20.000 euros para realizar su colección primavera-verano 2008, un premio que fue llevado a cabo gracias a la asociación francesa ANDAM (Association Nationale pour le Developpement des Arts de la Mode), y pagado por la über cool tienda Beams de Tokyo.
Podeis disfrutar de la colección en su web, pero yo aprovecho que estamos en invierno para mostrar cosas calentitas... su colección otoño-invierno 07-08.

Quote of The Day.- Gertrude Stein

"Everybody gets so much information all day long that they lose their common sense"

Gertrude Stein

" Todo el mundo recibe tanta información diaria que acaba por perderse el sentido común"

Gertrude Stein

Fashion, Religion and Law

Juashaunna Kelly, a senior at the District of Columbia’s Theodore Roosevelt High School, has been disqualified from a meet because officials said the custom-made outfit she wears to conform to her Muslim faith violated competition rules. (source)

Juashaunna has worn the same custom-made outfit for over three seasons but it's been only now that the referees decided that the outfit "violates the rules of the National Federation of State High School Associations" which stays that uniforms are required to be a single-solid color and unadorned...

One of the "options" that was giving to the athlete was to "take the hood off", then to wear a plain white T-shirt on over it...

But what's this need for saying others what to wear, what to say or what to think? Isn't this girl trying to live a normal life just wearing an outfit a little different than their peers in order to be able to be true to her religion? Who does really care? Do her peers, who are the ones who should care if that'd be the case, even care? I don't think so.

I think that the fact that Western people live in "democracies" make us think that we are free of speech, thought and fashion; if you want to wear a shoe in your head and no cloths to cover your legs, go ahead, no one will stop you, no one will take you directly to court! ...

We can dress crazy, trendy and cool as long as we don't wear something that shows your "convictions", like a veil. Because trendiness implies frivolity which harms no one "but yourself", but a veil implies character, and that my dear, that means that you think, and thinking can be very dangerous ...

-----

Juashaunna Kelly, una atleta musulmana del instituto Theodore Roosevelt, situado en Washington, ha sido descalificada de una competición por llevar ropa deportiva conforme a su fe, pero que "violaba las reglas de la carrera", han informado hoy medios locales. (fuente)

Juashaunna ha llevado este atuendo por tres temporadas pero parece ser que es solo ahora cuando la cosa tiene su importacia, ya que no ha sido hasta ahora que los árbitros han decidido que dicho atuendo viola las normas de la Federación Nacional de las Asociacones de Institutos de América entre las cuales se cita que "los uniformes han de ser de un solo color y sin adornos...".

Y yo me pregunto, de dónde sacamos esta necesidad de estar continuamente diciendo a los demas lo que deven llevar, lo que deben decir o lo que deben pensar? A quién le importa realmente que esta chica lleve o no lleve velo? Les importa a sus compañeros que son, si es que a alguien le tiene que importar, que ella vista de manera algo diferente? No creo que a ellos les importe lo más minimo, al fin y al cabo esta chica lo que quiere hacer es ser libre de poder correr y a la vez poder ser fiel a su religión, para lo que ella misma se ideó un atuendo, ella misma alló la solución que ahora se le esta denegando...

A veces creemos que por vivir en paises occidentales somos libres de pensamiento y de hacer lo que nos de la gana, pero ay, en cuanto nos salimos un poco de las normas establecidas, en cuanto damos a entender a traves de nuestro atuendo que "pensamos", que nuestras convicciones son otras que las "comunes", entonces las cosas se empiezan a poner feas...