Tuesday, January 29, 2008

New Yorkers I Need Your Help!

I'm looking for Creeper boots... I went to Trash & Vaudeville but don't have them (!!) only creeper shoes.


I remember there's an area of Gothic stores around 14th St with 6th Ave?, do you know other places where i can look for them?
I found this picture of dear Olsen wearing something similar... and images of some models I'm looking for ...


Thanks!!

you can email me or posting a comment... thanks thanks thanks

Fashion Week is Heaven. Fashion Week is Hell.

Days of stress. Fashion week around the corner and I'm booked to style an editorial for Mexican magazine Celeste with German photographer Claudia Grassl.

Fashion week can be the best moment to prepare an editorial in NYC, or the worst.- the best because the BEST models are in town so you can have the chance of working with them for your shoot. The worst because all the good girls are booked to do fashion shows and it's basically impossible to do a casting.

Another reason for which one should avoid fashion week to do a photo shoot is the fact that the most important showrooms are all closed dealing with the shows and so is IMPOSSIBLE to get any clothing. Only contacts will help you to get what you want... but those contacts work in fashion, therefore they are normally working their ass off with no time to deal with you.

getting the looks ready


Claudia and me are running like crazy these days all over Manhattan and Brooklyn to find locations, clothing, models... I have to say though that I'm getting some really nice clothing so far... remember those amazing zip-up Patrik Rzepski's stockings I talked about? I was able to get them for the shoot! I'm very happy about that... :) more news very soon.

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Estos dias ando de arriba para abajo, estresada pateandome la ciudad y haciendo llamadas cada hora. La fashion week la tenemos a la vuelta de la esquina y aparte estoy preparando un edito para la revista mexicana Celeste con la fotografa alemana Claudia Grassl.

Preparar un edito durante la fashion week puede ser de lo mejor, o de lo peor: por una parte tenemos a las mejores modelos en la ciudad con lo que la oportunidad de poder tenerlas es mayor que normalmente, mientras que por otra, al ser fashion week todas las chicas andan de castings para los desfiles y no hay manera de conseguir a nadie.

Por otro lado esta el tema de los showrooms que por estas fechas cierran para preparar los desfiles asi que cuesta dios y ayuda el conseguir ropa, hay que tirar de contactos pero los contactos obviamente trabajan en la industria de la moda y ellos mismos andan como locos y sin tiempo para dedicarte a encontrar ropa para tu editorial. Un infierno.
Pero bueno, la verdad que no me puedo quejar, me hubiese gustado oder tener acceso a mas ropa pero he ido consiguiendo cosas muy chulas como las medias con cremallera de Patrik Rzepski de las que hable en la pasada fashion week.

Saturday, January 26, 2008

Me & My Bag

I've been tagged 4 times so I couldn't escape...

5 lovely ladies, Rumi from Fashion Toast (although she tagged me to speak abut me not my bag...), The Glossy Editor, Sage & Allecra from 24.7 and the loveliest Dreamecho, asked me to reveal what my bag has inside...

I took a picture of myself carrying my bag which is no other than a funny pack that my dearest Gia gave me time ago.

I was always with back pains because of the big bags i used to carry all day long, so she decided the smallest the bag, the better my back.


A.- a camera. because you never know when the inspiration might show up.

B.- a book. because you need a pastime to spend the long hours spent in the subway. Currently reading The Flowers of Friendship, letters written to Gertrude Stein.

C.- gloves. It's freezing cold in the city these days.

D.- keys and pens. For obvious reasons.

E.- my cell and headset. I hate to have the cell directly on my ear when I speak on the phone, i can feel the microwaves and my brain burning, i swear. So i couldn't live without my headset!

F.- my vintage purse. To carry my money, lip balm and business cards.

G.- my bag. To keep in place all written above.

Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Gummo

The movies of Harmony Korine are not the easiest to swallow but they are, for the same reason, the most interesting and stimulating.

Someone told me once that Korine's films reminded him of Vice magazine; they both use "easy subjects" to shock the audience such sexual taboos, violence and marginal people.

I can agree on that but i find a big difference; the "poetry" of it all; Harmony's films are truly poetic, the music, the characters, everything has some kind of purity that I don't find on Vice; I personally find Vice a punch in the stomach. Korine's stories are a punch in the soul.

One of my favourite movies was Julien Donkey-Boy, but the one which wardrobe is definitely something to talk about is 1996's Gummo, a movie that the great Werner Herzog called "a masterpiece".

Gummo is the the follow up in the lives of a bunch of kids from Xenia, Ohio, where a tornado during the 70's left the town in ruins and whose inhabitants didn't quite recover from the event.
Kids are bored and apathetic, what leads them to spend their time in the best way they can: these include sniffing glue, killing cats, having sex, riding dirt bikes, listening to black metal, and meeting a cavalcade of quirky, bizarre, and scary people.

Chloë Sevigny was the Costume Designer for this movie and her work is superb.
Contemporary movies "cancel" very often the work of costumes designers because everyone has a very clear understanding of contemporary clothing; they live with it.

But people don't realize that each person dress different and that is what makes him / her the person he / she is. It's the job of a costume designer to create a character through clothing and put on an actor what the character would wear. Therefore the less you notice the wardrobe, the better the job is done because it means you know the character wearing that clothing.

So it's quite difficult to make a contemporary wardrobe interesting and fun, but that's exactly what Chloë got with this movie.





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Las películas de Harmony Korine no son precisamente las más fáciles de asimilar, pero por el mismo motivo son, a mi modo de ver, unas de las las más interesantes del cine contemporáneo.

Una vez alguien me dijo que las películas de Korine le recordaban en cierta manera a la revista Vice, que ambas recurren a temas "demasiado fáciles" para prococar al espectador, como son la violencia, los tabues sexuales y la gente marginal.

En cierta manera es verdad pero creo que la diferencia estriba en la "poesía", de la que carece totalmente la revista y de la que le sobra a las películas: donde una te pega un puñetazo en el estómago, la otra te lo da en el alma. Básicamente.

Una de mis pelis favoritas es Julien Donkey-Boy pero para hablar de vestuario tenemos que hablar de Gummo, que el gran director alemán Werner Herzog llegó a tildar de "obra maestra".

La pellicula narra las peripecias de un grupo de chavales del pueblo de Xenia, en Ohio, Estados Unidos, donde un tornado duranto los 70 dejó al pueblo con la mitad de habitantes y en un estado de lo más desalentador.
Chloë Sevigny diseñó el vestuario de esta pelicula e hizo un trabajo fascinante. Siempre es complicado para los diseñadores de vestuario diseñar para una pelicula contemporanea porque la ropa pasa desapercibida por todos (cuantos Oscars se dan a peliculas que no sean de época?) ya que todos tenemos pleno entendimiento de ella; la vivimos dia a dia.
Elegir la ropa adecuada para crear un personaje y a la vez hacerlo interesante es dificil y puñetero. Pero ahí tenemos Gummo, en el que cada uno de los personajes lleva lo mas estrafalario que te puedes imaginar, siendo precisamente eso lo que te esperas, y no te esperas de cada uno de ellos.

Monday, January 21, 2008

A Japanese Toga

Japanese designer Yasuko Furota is the great mind behind the label Toga.
Her first collection was created in 1997 but it wasn't until 2001, during Japan Fashion Week in Tokyo, that she held her first fashion show.

In 2007 the French association ANDAM (Association Nationale pour le Developpement des Arts de la Mode) awarded her work and she received 20,000 euros from Japanese store Beams to prepare her summer 2008 collection. The collection can be seen in her website but because I don't like to speak of summer when it's winter, here is her beautiful A/W 07-08 collection.



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Yasuko Furota es la cabecita pensante y creadora de la firma japonesa Toga. Y aunque creó su primera colección en 1997, no será hasta el 2001 en el que Yasuko podrá ver su primer desfile, que tuvo lugar durante la Japan Fashion Week en Tokyo, porque desfile y colecciones por desgracia no son todo uno.
El año pasado Furota fue galardonada con un premio de 20.000 euros para realizar su colección primavera-verano 2008, un premio que fue llevado a cabo gracias a la asociación francesa ANDAM (Association Nationale pour le Developpement des Arts de la Mode), y pagado por la über cool tienda Beams de Tokyo.
Podeis disfrutar de la colección en su web, pero yo aprovecho que estamos en invierno para mostrar cosas calentitas... su colección otoño-invierno 07-08.

Sunday, January 20, 2008

Quote of The Day.- Gertrude Stein

"Everybody gets so much information all day long that they lose their common sense"
Gertrude Stein



" Todo el mundo recibe tanta información diaria que acaba por perderse el sentido común"
Gertrude Stein

Saturday, January 19, 2008

Fashion, Religion and Law

Juashaunna Kelly, a senior at the District of Columbia’s Theodore Roosevelt High School, has been disqualified from a meet because officials said the custom-made outfit she wears to conform to her Muslim faith violated competition rules. (source)

Juashaunna has worn the same custom-made outfit for over three seasons but it's been only now that the referees decided that the outfit "violates the rules of the National Federation of State High School Associations" which stays that uniforms are required to be a single-solid color and unadorned...

One of the "options" that was giving to the athlete was to "take the hood off", then to wear a plain white T-shirt on over it...

But what's this need for saying others what to wear, what to say or what to think? Isn't this girl trying to live a normal life just wearing an outfit a little different than their peers in order to be able to be true to her religion? Who does really care? Do her peers, who are the ones who should care if that'd be the case, even care? I don't think so.

I think that the fact that Western people live in "democracies" make us think that we are free of speech, thought and fashion; if you want to wear a shoe in your head and no cloths to cover your legs, go ahead, no one will stop you, no one will take you directly to court! ...

We can dress crazy, trendy and cool as long as we don't wear something that shows your "convictions", like a veil. Because trendiness implies frivolity which harms no one "but yourself", but a veil implies character, and that my dear, that means that you think, and thinking can be very dangerous ...



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Juashaunna Kelly, una atleta musulmana del instituto Theodore Roosevelt, situado en Washington, ha sido descalificada de una competición por llevar ropa deportiva conforme a su fe, pero que "violaba las reglas de la carrera", han informado hoy medios locales. (fuente)

Juashaunna ha llevado este atuendo por tres temporadas pero parece ser que es solo ahora cuando la cosa tiene su importacia, ya que no ha sido hasta ahora que los árbitros han decidido que dicho atuendo viola las normas de la Federación Nacional de las Asociacones de Institutos de América entre las cuales se cita que "los uniformes han de ser de un solo color y sin adornos...".

Y yo me pregunto, de dónde sacamos esta necesidad de estar continuamente diciendo a los demas lo que deven llevar, lo que deben decir o lo que deben pensar? A quién le importa realmente que esta chica lleve o no lleve velo? Les importa a sus compañeros que son, si es que a alguien le tiene que importar, que ella vista de manera algo diferente? No creo que a ellos les importe lo más minimo, al fin y al cabo esta chica lo que quiere hacer es ser libre de poder correr y a la vez poder ser fiel a su religión, para lo que ella misma se ideó un atuendo, ella misma alló la solución que ahora se le esta denegando...

A veces creemos que por vivir en paises occidentales somos libres de pensamiento y de hacer lo que nos de la gana, pero ay, en cuanto nos salimos un poco de las normas establecidas, en cuanto damos a entender a traves de nuestro atuendo que "pensamos", que nuestras convicciones son otras que las "comunes", entonces las cosas se empiezan a poner feas...

Thursday, January 17, 2008

Tony Solis

It is always refreshing to see young photographers getting big.
As a magazine devourer, i get tired sometimes of seeing the same names over and over in every page of every publication I buy; if, let's say, Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott are the new "in vogue" boys, then their work will be feature in every single big magazine out there; Vogue, W, Pop, Numero...

For this reason I'm more often interested in small and independent publications which range of photographers and designers is more diverse and fresh.

Mexican magazine Baby Baby Baby is one of my vices since I discovered it in 2006, always hard to get (although now that American Apparel stores will distribute it everything will get easier) but always a surprise for the eyes.

Many of the photographers that Paola Viloria, fashion editor of the publication, chooses to be published get bigger and well known, as Mexican photographer Tony Solis whose story Cirqueras (Circus Girls), published in the spring-summer 06 issue of the magazine, has been since of great inspiration for me.



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Cada vez más a menudo me interesan las revistas pequeñas y los fanzines donde al menos los fotografos y los diseñadores que publican no estan tan "quemados" como los publicados en las revistas de siempre, el Vogue, el W, Pop, Numero... donde si los fotógrafos Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott son la pareja del momento, su trabajo saldrá en al menos un edito en las páginas de las revistas antes mencionadas dando así pie a que se hable una y otra vez de ellos dejando muy poquito espacio en nuestras mentes para los que estan empezando.
La revista mexicana Baby Baby Baby es una de mis favoritas en este aspecto (no se si ha llegado a España todavia aunque se que las tiendas American Apparel van a empezar a distribuirla), donde encuentro fotografos de lo más interesante que ademas, gracias a Paola Viloria, editora de moda de la revista, han ido escalando y haciéndose cada vez más conocidos, como el mexicano Tony Solis cuyo edito Cirqueras, que publicó en el número de primavera-verano 2006 de la revista, me ha servido de fuente de inspiración desde entonces siempre que no conseguia "ropa de marca" para darme cuenta que no la necesitas para hacer cosas interesantes.

Wednesday, January 16, 2008

Le Chic Style De Morgane Dubled

This French model has gone from being a quasi unknown to have 55 pages in style.com and her own entry in wikipedia.
Morgane Dubled might not be a baa baa boom model in the like of Lara Stone, but her simple and yet trés chic style was really something that caught my eye.




all images courtesy of style.com

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La modelo francesa Morgane Dubled ha pasado de ser una quasi desconocida a posar para las mejores casas, ha tener 55 paginas dedicadas a ella en style.com y a tener su propia entrada en la enciclopedia por antonomasia, wikipedia.
Morgane puede que no sea una modelo de las de girar cabezas como lo puede ser Lara Stone, pero tiene su estilo, elegante y chic. Que se le nota que es francesa vaya...

Monday, January 14, 2008

Sofia Coppola Doing Gymnastics

I had no idea that Sofia Coppola starred in The Chemical Brother's music video Elektrobank directed by Spike Jonze. Has anyone seen this video before? I stumbled upon it totally by chance, it's really funny. Very "Spike Jonze", if you know what I mean.

Sunday, January 13, 2008

Don't Come Knocking *

* thanks Wim Wenders for the tittle of this post

I met Shana Tabor (from NY vintage store In God We Trust) last Thanksgiving in a party we both attended.

At one point she started to tell me about some issue she had with Banana Republic. It seems that they knocked off a wool hat that Shana herself knitted for her store, and the copy was so perfect that now she was loosing money (how can she compete with Banana Republic's prices) and credibility (how can she prove that she designed the piece before? even if she does, how can anyone will buy the same piece in her store being the most expensive?).

is there any difference?


Weeks later my friend Zosen, a street-art artist from Barcelona, contacted me to tell me the knock off he was suffering from some random T-shirt company in Buenos Aires; it was copying not only Zosen's designs but also his own name!... (if you've been following my blog since the beginning you might remember Zosen from Amonstro Chocante).


The saddest part is that i've been a
knocker myself when i worked for a big fashion company as a designer, so i know how the business work... to be hired by this companies you need to pass arduous interviews where they look and re-look your portfolio and they will only pick the best from the bests... to later ask you to trash all your creativity in order to copy someone else's ideas.
I guess they could save all this time and stress; you don't need to be a genius to knock off someone else's designs, do you?


Let me translate what Zosen sent me...


" ACID GUERRILLA copy-paste

I know it's no news that fashion designers copy one another, but it's unbelievable that the "new" ones, the "creative" and young are copying their peers as well... Viva the imagination!


Weeks ago some friends of mine went to Buenos Aires, Argentina, to attend the Independent Art Festival Buen Dia.

They saw my designs printed in some T-shirts, the design was a poster I did for a solo show I had in Barcelona in June last year (2006).

My friends asked one of the guys wearing the T-shirt where he bought it, maybe in Barcelona?. The guy said, no, in Buenos Aires, then they asked if he knew Zosen; he had no idea...

My friends contacted me to tell me that there were T-shirts in this Art Fair in Buenos Aires announcing my solo show in Barcelona... with my name, the gallery's name and even the gallery address!.
They copied DIRECTLY the design, changing only the dates and the website, writing theirs instead of the gallery's.

The
knockers name is, take note, LOVERS&FUCKERS... really original!... After this i decided to take a look to their website to realize that they copied not only me but also designs from records from Sonic Youth, Sex Pistols, etc. I sent them an e-mail and the owner answered me; "he didn't know anything" about it, it was all the "designer's fault, he even said that such design wasn't even the idea he had of the look for his label... he asked me to please don't talk bad about them, he didn't want bad publicity for his label. But I wanted to share what it happened.

We ended up making a third-world deal and at least I got to get free t-shirts with the name of my solo show print on them.

COOL HUNTERS OF THE WORLD: UNITE!! "


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// El día de Acción de Gracias conocí a
Shana Tabor dueña de la tienda de ropa vintage In God We Trust. Estuvimos hablando de mil cosas y entre ellas surgio en la conversacion el tema de las copias en el mundo de la moda, algo de lo que tanto diseñadores como tiendas estan muy al tanto hoy día.
Parece ser que Banana Republic habia calcado tal cual uno de los gorros que ella misma hace para vender en la tienda y que desde entonces habia estado teniendo muchisimos problemas para venderlos porque no podia competir con los precios de Banana Republic asi como con la "dignidad" de estar vendiendo algo que una gran compañia estaba vendiendo tambien; como pruebas que fuiste tu el primero que lo diseñó?

Semanas despues mi amigo Zosen, desde Barcelona me contactó para contarme lo que le habia pasado con una compañia de camisetas de Buenos Aires que habian fulminado tal cual el diseño de uno de los carteles anunciadores de una exhibicion que habia tenido hacia un año. Abajo os pongo el email que me mandó.

Lo peor de todo es que yo se de que va este tema porque yo misma he copiado. He sido diseñadora en una gran empresa por dos años y pocas empresas hay hoy dia que permitan a sus diseñadores crear en lugar de fulminar. Lo cual es gracioso porque para entrar en esas empresas uno tiene que pasar entrevistas maratonianas en las que se mira con lupa tu portfolio... para que luego toda tu creatividad te la tiren a la basura porque lo que quieren de ti es que copies, y ya está.



" GUERRILLA ACIDA copy-paste

Que en el mundo del textil se copie no es nada nuevo, pero lo que es ya el colmo es que tod@s es@s nuevos “diseñadores” copien también a sus congéneres. La imaginación al poder!

Hace unas semanas unos amigos asistieron a un festival al aire libre en Buenos Aires (Argentina) el Festival Buen Día. Allí descubrieron uno de mis diseños sobre t-shirts estampadas; el diseño en concreto era el poster de una expo que tuve en Barcelona en Junio del año pasado. A uno de los chicos que llevaban la camiseta le preguntaron: ¿dónde compraste la t-shirt en Barcelona? No, en Buenos Aires, ¿conoces a Zosen? No, quién es ese?. Así todo raro me lo hacen saber, que hay camisetas anunciando mi expo, con el nombre de la galería,el mío propio y hasta la calle de la galería!!

Habían copiado íntegramente el diseño, sólo cambiaron dónde aparecía las fechas de la expo y las websites por el nombre de la “marca”. Los artífices de la copia se llaman (atentos a la originalidad del nombre) LOVERS&FUCKERS, a qué no suena típico? Eh qué no?

Decido echar un vistazo a su web y descubro que no sólo me habían copiado a mí sino también tenían impresas t-shirts con diseños de discos de los Sonic Youth, Sex Pistols, etc.

Les escribí un email y el dueño me dijo que él no sabía nada que era culpa del “diseñador”,bla,bla y que LA COPIA no era su idea de diseño para la marca; menos mal porque sex pistols y sonic youth no son conocidos como para saber que el “diseñador” lo ha copiado de las portadas de sus discos!

Me dijo que no quería mala fama y que no hablara mal de ellos, por eso aquí les cuento mi experiencia. Llegamos a un acuerdo tercermundista y tengo algunas camisetas con el nombre de mi expo: GUERRILLA ACIDA!

Lo mejor las modelos luciéndolas que parecen que están con mucho calor del verano..

¡¡COOL HUNTERS DEL MUNDO UNÍOS!! "

Saturday, January 12, 2008

No One Talked About The Best Dressed Girl in Cannes 2007

It's surprising that no one (or at least none of the blogs or fashion webs I normally follow) talked about the outfit that Chloë Sevigny wore in the past Cannes Festival 2007 in November when she was promoting the film Zodiac.
This post might be at little over but i just found the images from the event and couldn't pass up the opportunity to speak (again) of the smartest and most stylish girl in Hollywood.

As always, she was just stunning; teaching the people how to be chic and kick ass at the same time. [I'd love to know where she goes to the gym by the way... hers are the best legs ever!]


// Me sorprendió que nunca hasta ahora se habia hablado del modelito que nos lució la chica mejor vestida de todo Hollywood, la señorita Chlöe Sevigny, cuando presentó en Noviembre del año pasado la pelicula Zodiac en el festival de Cannes.
Enseñando al personal cómo ser cañera sin perder una pizca de elegancia...
y digo, tampoco me importaria saber donde va al gimnasio!.. menudas piernas :)

Friday, January 11, 2008

British Do It Better


British have a special gift and passion in the making of millinery.
The world wouldn't be the same without the likes of Phillip Tracy, Isabella Blow or Her Majesty the Queen Elizabeth II, all them British with one and wonderful passion: hats.
British millinery designers are top in their field, like newcomer J Smith Squire, who will be soon something to talk about.





Photography by Katrina D.
Video and still pictures from his MA graduation show in 2007.



Thursday, January 10, 2008

La Reine Margot

I saw Patrice Chéreau's La Reine Margot for the first time when I was 15 years old.

My friend Inés and I were bored at home and decided to rent a movie. I remember the shock of seeing Isabelle Adjani in the cover of the VHS (yes ladies, there weren't DVD's yet!) so solemn and wonderful in a red brocade dress with white partlet. We didn't know a thing about the film but we rented it just because we liked the fashions in the cover.

The film was as shocking as was the look of the VHS jacket. You have this thing in your head that all movies from "old" times are kind of sweet and happy. You don't expect when one is like this, as bloody and violent, sexually charged and deep in the matters that was talking about. (note that we saw the "European" version of the film, 160 minutes instead of 138; the movie cut was due to a disappointing box-office performance in France and the criticism of the film as being too violent and often incoherent. source).

The film, based on the 1845 historical novel of the same name by Alexandre Dumas father, narrates the years in the life of Margot de Valois, sister of the Catholic King Charles IX, when her wedding with the Hugenot King Henri of Navarre is arranged by the King’s mother, Catherine de Medici to "unite" Christians and Protestants in quite politically febrile years in the history of France.

The years to come will be a horror for the country because nor Christians nor Protestants will accept such a superficial show; what was supposed to forestall a conflict between the religious groups eventually metamorphosed into what would become known as the St. Bartholomew’s Day Massacre, an event that signaled the death of 6,000 Protestants, irretrievably blackened Medici’s name and became an unsightly smear on France’s history. (source). Those were the days...

This has always been a very special movie for me, I probably can say this is one of the best movies ever made. For this reason it was a wonderful surprise when when i interviewed Zoey and Brian from Boudicca for milkshake chocolate mentioned La Reine Margot and its Costume Designer Moidele Bickel, as something to remember.




/// La primera vez que ví la película del director francés Patrice Chéreau, La Reina Margot, yo tenia 15 añitos.
Era un día de esos de aburrimiento total en casa con mi amiga Inés, cuando decidimos irnos al videoclub a alquilarnos una peli.

Si cogimos La Reina Margot no fue por otra cosa más que por la carátula de la cinta (ah... nada de DVDs todavia!). Nos gustó Isabel Adjani con su vestido rojo de brocado y su gorguera blanca, tan solemne y maravillosa.

Obviamente no teniamos ni idea de lo que íba la pelicula, pensamos que sería otra de esas ñoñeces a las que Hollywood nos tiene acostumbrados en las peliculas de época. Claro que se nos escapó un detalle: esta no venia de Hollywood.

La película nos dejó en estado de shock, fue una de las pelis más violentas y sexualmente cargadas que yo habia visto hasta la época, tratandose de eso, una peli de época. Claro que encima nosotras vimos la version "Europea" de 160 minutos en vez de los 138 a los que se redujo posteriormente por motivos comerciales y porque a los americanos no se les podia mandar tanta violencia a casa... fuente.

La pelicula, basada en el libro de 1845 del mismo nombre escrito por Alejandro Dumas padre, narra los terribles añs que siguieron a la boda concertada entre la católica Margot de Valois, hermana del rey de Francia Carlos IV, y el
rey hugonote Enrique de Navarra.

Esta es probablemente una de las mejores peliculas que se han echo en la historia del cine en mi opinion. De ahi que cuando Brian y Zoey de Boudicca nombraron este film en la entrevista que les hice para milkshake chocolate y su diseñadora de vestuario Moidele Bickel como algo para recordar, se me quedó grabado.

Wednesday, January 09, 2008

Bullet Cartridges and Peaceful Stones


I met Gia Bahm in June 2007 when she was looking for an assistant and I was desperate for a job. I've been assisting her on and off since then and I swear she's not paying me an extra buck when I say that she is the best boss i ever had.
I knew she had a jewelry label but never paid enough attention until she got a new studio and I started to frequent it very often (it was our styling headquarters). There she had all her pieces and I literally got in love with her whole process in designing them.

Everyone's favourite store Opening Ceremony contacted her to carry her label Unearthen in their showroom and soon she got her pieces at French über cool store Colette.
One of those days of styling madness I took a couple of pictures in the studio and she answered a couple of questions for me.

En Junio del año pasado conocí a Gia Bahm en un momento de desesperación para ambas: ella estaba buscando asistente y yo estaba desesperada por trabajar. Desde entonces la he asistido a intervalos regulares y es posiblemente el mejor jefe que he tenido hasta ahora (y prometo que no me esta pagando dinero extra por que diga esto!).
Cuando empecé a trabajar con ella sabía que diseñaba sus propias joyas pero nunca le di mayor importancia... ya sabes, lo que tienes cerca ni lo miras... hasta que se mudó a un estudio nuevo y empecé a frecuentarlo asiduamente ya que allí era donde siempre quedabamos antes de empezar cualquier trabajo nuevo.
Desde entonces muchas cosas han ido cambiando: Opening Ceremony se puso en ocntacto con ella para llevar la linea de joyas y pronto sus piezas empezaron a verse en lugares como Colette
En uno de estos dias de locura frenetica, despues del trabajo me quedé de charleta en el estudio e hice algunas fotos. Luego me contestó algunas preguntas... en Paris.





Q. Where did you work before designing for your own label Unearthen? /// A qué te dedicabas antes de diseñar tu propia colcción de joyas, Unearthen?
A. I have been working as a wardrobe stylist. Unearthen is my first time designing a jewelry line.
Antes era estilista. Nunca antes había diseñado joyas así que Unearthen es mi primera incursión en este mundo.


Q. Why did you decide to start the label? /// Por qué empezaste Unearthen?
A. I have always been so into jewelry. When I was little I would look through my mom's collection of turquoise bracelets and necklaces and just stare at them. She would rarely wear them they were so precious. In college (and now still) I would wear crazy stuff I found at the thrift store, random pieces of 80's clip on earrings and Paul McCartney's Wings pins, things like that.
Recently, I started to notice people's jewelry style on the train. A lot of necklaces. All of these people wearing a reminder of something or some other memory so close to their heart. What a special way to wear something, what a special statement.
Then I became obsessed with crystals...
Siempre he sido muy fanática de las joyas. Cuando era pequeñita solia quedarme horas mirando la colección de pulsera y collares de turquesa de mi madre. Ella nunca llegaba a ponerse nada de todo eso ya que las consideraba demasiado "preciosas". Cuando iba a la universidad, y aun hoy, solía ponerme joyas de lo más estrafalarias que compraba en tiendas de segunda mano, pendientes de los 80's, chapas del grupo Wings de Paul McCartney, en fin, cosas así. Ultimamente me estoy dando cuenta de lo que la gente se pone en el metro en cuanto a joyas. Un montón de collares. Es como si quisieran llevar recordatorios de algo muy cerco del corazón. Me parece algo muy poetico. Luego empecé a obsesionarme con cristales...




Q. Why did you start designing with gems and empty cartridges? /// Por qué empezaste a diseñar com piedras semi preciosas y cartuchos de bala?
A. I went with a friend to a crystal store. She was looking for tangerine quartz to help her with some ailment. I'm into the idea of crystals as antidotes. I bought a few crystals, and I just tripped out on them. I thought they were so beautiful. It became my new hobby. I would go regularly to the crystal store. Once, when I was on a trip to a store in Pennsylvania, I saw a crystal in a silver setting that reminded me of a bullet casing. When I got back to New York, I went to the army navy surplus, bought a fake bullet that was on a key chain, pulled the bullet out of the casing with pliers, and added a crystal. It was very second nature. I needed to make this thing.
Un día fuí con una amiga a una tienda de cristales semi-preciosos. Ella estaba buscando un tipo de cuarzo llamado Tangerine que la ayudase con algunos problemas que estaba teniendo de salud. Siempre me ha gustado el hecho de poder ser curado a traves de los cristales, entonces compré algunos para mi tambien. De ahi en adelante todo es historia, me quedé enganchada, me lo tome como un hobby y siempre que podia me escaba a la tienda de cristales. Un dia, en un viaje a Pennsylvania, vi una piedra incrustada en una especie de bala de plata. Cuando volví a Nueva York me fuí al centro donde los militares navales tienen los excedentes y alli me hice con una bala de mentira que tenia una cadena, quité la bala del casquete con alicates y añadí el cristal en su interior. Me gustó tanto el resultado que decidí empezar a diseñar mas piezas.




Q. What's your favourite rock and why? /// Cual es tu piedra favorita y por qué?
A. I am in love with Aquamarine. I always wear it. It comes in lots of the prettiest blue colors. I really love Fluorite too, and also a new crystal--Green Amethyst. There's some unknown attraction to these crystals for me, I can't tell you exactly why...the power of crystals I guess, haha!
Me apasionan los Aguamarinas, siempre llevo alguno. Vienen en un monton de tipos de azul, bien bonitos. Tambien me gustan las Fluoritas, y un nuevo cristal llamado Green Amethyst. Hay algo en los cristales que me atrae muchisimo, no se... el poder de los cristales! jaja...


Q. What's the most exciting thing that has happened since you started Unearthen?
/// Cuéntame la anécdota más interesante que te haya pasado hasta ahora con la marca.
A. It's pretty exciting to see how into crystals people get, I guess because think crystals are so beautiful too. And you would never guess how a totally macho dude or the most straight-laced fool will become transfixed at the sight of a beautiful gem.
Es bastante excitante el ver cómo la gente se interesa por los cristales, me imagino que es porque los cristales son algo bien bonito. Y te podria llegar a sorprender la cantidad de "macho man" que hay ahí fuera al que la vision de un cristal le convierte en un corderito!.





Q. Any jewelry designer to mention? /// Algun diseñador de joyas favorito?
A. Sure. I saw a exhibition this summer in San Francisco that had an amazing YSL amethyst broach... I keep thinking about it.
Cómo no. Este verano pasado ví una exposición en San Francisoque tenian un broche de amatista de Yves Saint Laurent que no me lo quito de la cabeza.


Q. What's your favourite store for jewelry and/or for clothing? /// Qué tiendas de joyas y/o ropa nos recomiendas?
A. I love The Good The Bad and The Ugly [ in NYC ], they always have a smartly curated selection of jewelry, and they make their own stuff too. They recently made a 14k gold miniature bicycle necklace that is so cool.
The same answer would apply for clothing. If I buy anything new, this is where I shop.
Me encanta The Good The Bad and The Ugly en NY. Tienen una selección de joyas de los más cuidada, hace poco tenían una bicicleta de oro de 14 kilates en miniatura que era una pasada. Respecto a tienda de ropa? pues lo mismo, si tengo que comprar algo siempre acabo alli.


Q. What are you working on right now? /// En qué estas trabajando ahora?
A. Planning a trip in February to the biggest Gem and Mineral show in the world!
Estoy planeando un viaje en febrero a la feria de rocas y minerales más grande del mundo!


Q. What are you reading these days? /// Qué estas leyendo?
A. I just read "Into the Wild" by Jon Krakauer. One of the best books I have ever read. Now I need a new book, any suggestions?
Acabo de acabar "into the Wild" de Jon Krakauer, probablemente el mejor libro que he leido en toda mi vida, así que ahora estoy a la búsqueda de algo nuevo... alguna sugerencia?



pictures and text by me

Tuesday, January 08, 2008

new year new name more people more help


the winter issue of milkshake chocolate was the last issue of this magazine under such name.
when i created the magazine two years ago the main content was illustration therefore the name had this sense of cute and childish. after two years online though, the publication was developing to something more "serious" and now that name remain a little in the limbo.

for this reason i'm redesigning the magazine, the name and the content.

  • i'm looking for collaborators that want to submit interviews, fashion editorials and articles. writers, stylists, photographer, i'm open to ideas. I do have also some people to be interviewed and i need journalists that want to. around the world.

  • i want in-depth articles and experimental photography and writing. let's take advantage that this platform is commercially free and so we can do and say what we please. let's be free.

thanks that i luckily had the support of people like Bless, Boudicca or Sandra Backlund in the past who agreed to be interviewing for milkshake choc. the site has grown in credibility what is helping me to get other very interesting designers to interview and contributors to work with in this following issue.


if you'd like to be part of this personal project, please say hi at patri.le.crayon (a) gmail.com it's very important that you send samples of your work both if you are a photographer, a stylist or a writer.

thanks for reading so far :)


/// estoy buscando colaboradores para milkshake chocolate.
despues de dos años bajo ese nombre, la revista esta tomando otros caminos más "serios" y experimentales y por eso necesito darle un nombre mas adecuado y más contenido.
estoy buscando fotografos, estilistas y escritores. quiero gente experimental, conceptual y que tenga algo que decir.
gracias a las entrevistas pasadas que hice a gente como Bless, Boudicca o Sandra Backlund, la publicacion ha ido tomando credibilidad y esto me esta permitiendo el acercamiento a diseñadores cada vez más grandes.
antes solia hacer yo todas las entrevistas pero ahora necesito ayuda.
si te apetece colaborar no dudes en ponerte en contacto conmigo a
patri.le.crayon (a) gmail.com es muy importante que me mandeis ejemplos de vuestro trabajo, ya sea de fotografia, estilismo o escritura.
mil gracias y un saludito!.