Friday, October 12, 2007

Cecil Beaton: Memoirs of the 40's. Part I

Cecil Beaton: Memoirs of the 40's, is the marvelous autobiography of the great Cecil Beaton, British photographer (Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Vanity Fair), set designer (My Fair Lady, Tenderloin), illustrator and one of the most important witnesses and tellers of the XX Century's Art society. He befriended geniuses like Pablo Picasso, Jean Cocteau, Gertrude Stein, Truman Capote ... and talked about them in the most openly and sensitive way.
He was an insatiable diary keeper and his diaries from the 40's form the pages of this book. There are other books with his diaries from the 60's and the 70's or 80's, but as you might know, I'm a 40's lover so I'm sure this will be my all time fave book.

Cecil was to me, before reading this book, a funny character, some kind of effeminate guy whose love for society, magazines and photography led him to be one of the most interesting portrait artists of his time. Thanks to him though I discovered women as Nancy Cunard (who he photographed during the 20's) whose look has been imitated for some many women afterwards, so I had him in big steam.

Beaton's image and persona had a meaning to me that has changed 180º since I read the memoirs ... he was not that funny and effeminate guy I thought him to be, he was witty, sharp, sensitive and very very intelligent, and his life was one to envy.
I have been thinking the best way of reviewing this book and I came to the conclusion that who better than he to portrait his own genius?.

I'm going to reproduce parts of this book, (I hope i don't have problems with the law now...) where he portraits artists and people we all know or should know, the way they were, for you to show you how this way differs to what magazines, gossips and legends of the time has told us.

I would like to start with a Spanish person, Rita De Acosta, or Rita Lydig as he calls her (in 1902 she married retired U.S. Army Captain Phillip M. Lydig).
This extract is from a conversation the author has with Mercedes De Acosta, Rita's younger sister and very good friend of Beaton's lover, Greta Garbo. (surprised? i was too!)

" I also asked her [Mercedes] about her remarkable sister Rita Lydig, who was renowned for being the most extravagant woman of her day, and travelled abroad with seven servants including masseuse and hairdresser. [...]

I had known Mrs Lydig from her Boldini portraits but only met her once when I first came to America nearly twenty years ago. But by then her health had been undermined by drugs, to which she had become addicted after a careless doctor has caused her terrible suffering. By forgetting to turn off an electric pad placed under her while being given an anaesthetic before an operation, he had inflicted upon her such serious burns that they were never to heal. [...]

Her patronage of the arts-with particular taste for music and encouragement of musicians- resulted in her house's being used at all times for rehearsals or concerts. She had a special penchant for the Renaissance, was an expert on Oriental art, and as innovator of fashion wore the first backless evening dress at the opera. Shoes were also one of her passions, and she possessed literally hundreds of pairs made of Elizabethan lace, rare skins, and quattrocento velvet, all buckled, often with jewels, made by the genius Jan Torny, who worked only for women he admired. He did not charge them for every pair -each of a different style- but asked for an initial fee of a thousand pounds. After this, he could afford to have the tress made from wood normally used for making violins. When hard-pressed for money, Mrs Lydig preferred to fill her house with rare white flowers rather than to eat"

Cecil Beaton: Memoirs of the 40's. pages 246-247
McGraw-Hill Book Company editorial

Thursday, October 11, 2007

Give Me Give Me Give Me...

I want a body and an attitude to pull off these amazing dresses the way they deserve ...
Soon-to-be NY based designer Leon Curry alas Ellie Owen is the head behind them. His shinny cover-like fabrics are killer and I find the adds very funny and inspiring, they seem out from a futuristic shoot in any Vogue around the world... Juan Gatti, anyone?

Tuesday, October 09, 2007

Let's Be Cruel and Have Some Fun

In one of my fave posts of Gigi, alas Wendy Brandes, on Anne Boleyn, she named Henry VIII as Henry teh 8 thanks to whoever hit her blog with such a search term. I laughed out loud and thought, what a great idea!.

Dear bloggers let's play some funny game ... I'm going to write my 15 favourite search terms that people wrote and hit my blog for.
Some of these search terms are hilarious, others are pure non sense, I have common searchings too (Lara Stone, women in their sixties, Agyness Deyn...) I find very interesting full sentences as "where is lara stone" or "patti boyd was so skinny", as I never search for full sentences like that...

I find very curious to "study" my stats to see how other people behave on the net, it's like spying them in some way ... It's Sociology 100%.

If you are one of the hitters, please don't be offended, i can assure you my search terms are even more hilarious if i think about them... so no bad feelings, just some laughs.

Note that all the sentences are written the way the were searched, i didn't changed a thing, so if you find typos, that's the way it is! :)

So there we go! ...
  • "autobiography of a bee stinged me": trying to find "that" bee on the net to kill it!
  • "beatfull women sixties": beat the full!
  • "blonde woman dressing models": the dresser was prettier than the models themselves
  • "dorian parker the most beautiful woman in the world": nothing else to add
  • "exciting free photo": glad you like my pics
  • "hamansutra": funny typo
  • "how to bee beautiful girl": The pretty "bee"
  • "i love nylon": loving NY, loving LONdon
  • "lara stone is ugly": how did they find my Lara Stone-pro blog with this phrase?
  • "patti boyd was so skinny": full sentence
  • "why is "lara stone" doing so little shows": dunno
  • "where is lara stone?": some hates her, some no.
  • "rich woman" skinny "los+angeles": Looking for the ideal girl
  • "i scheduled my agenda": I wonder what this has to do with my blog
  • "alex kapranos ideal girl": Eleonor, someone is looking for you

Monday, October 08, 2007

The Merchant of Venice

Written sometime between 1596 and 1598, The Merchant of Venice is my Shakespeare's later discovery.
As you might already realized, I'm in a XVI century phase... I can't help it and I love it, therefore, my Netflix account (an online video rental) is burning with XVI century tittles.

The Merchant of Venice, the movie, has been my latest acquisition and regardless my hopeless straggle with the language (i'm not use to proper English really) I watched the 2h and 10 min of the film till the very end without blinking.
I have been very surprised for the quality of the movie because I didn't heard of it before so I thought it would be a mediocre version. None of this at all.

The Art Direction, by Jon Bunker, and the Production Design, by Bruno Rubeo, are both over the top, from the very beginning of the movie you can feel the colors of the time, the surfaces, the atmosphere... terracota, green, mustard... the look of the film is fantastic, and I'm glad it is so or I wouldn't bear the more than 2 hours of film understanding very little (as i mentioned before, my language straggle...) and not enjoining it with my eyes in awe.

But of course, how not to speak of the costumes!! This is the best XVI century movie I've ever seen, Sammy Sheldon, Costume Designer, who worked also in Gladiator, has all my bows. Even though I read somewhere that Radford [the director] did not want a strict depiction of costume during the period but a rather more stylised overall look, I found the wardrobe very inspiring and real and I didn't have the impression at any time of dealing with "theater", but with dresses straight from that époque.

Sammy said about the experience: "English costumes of this period were very big and decorated with triangular skirts but in Venice all through that century everything is much sexier and softer, really the proper kind of renaissance style. One of the big motivations for it was paintings, Mike liked Sargeant paintings, the whole kind of feel, texture, the lighting in it. They were used as a colour reference."

We try to generalize fashions but even in the same country fashions differ. It is quite interesting, as I said in some posts earlier too, to see this fact during the XVI century, a moment when the whole Western world was boiling in history facts and so, fashion followed (does this sentence make any sense?) ... For this reason movies whose stories happen at the same time in different countries can be so unlike in terms of fashion; Elizabeth (Britain), The Merchant of Venice (Italy), or Queen Margot (France) as to say. Those were the days when globalization and China goodies were still far away...

My favourite outfits so far were the ones worn by the Venetian prostitutes.
I regret I didn't take any pictures from the film, i just thought "I will find images enough on internet... such interesting outfits!" But i was very wrong and now i don't have any sample to prove what i saw.
I found, though, a drawing from a Venetian courtesan whose dress is, although not the same, the closest i could find, that is, breasts out and horn-like hair-do, isn't it lovely?
If i "find" the nerve enough to do it, i will dress like that in this upcoming Halloween.
More on prostitutes during the XVI century in Venice here.

Sunday, October 07, 2007

You Wear It Well, Dino Dinco and Paper Mag's Un-Hollywood Film Series

I have always been very curious about Dino Dinco and Diane Pernet's festival of fashion-related videos You Wear It Well so when I knew PAPER MAG was introducing some of the videos in their annual Un-Hollywood Film Series I didn't wait a second to RSVP my attendance.
The event took place on Monday September 24th at the screen in Tribeca Grand Hotel. I called my friend André to come with me and we both went all happy and amused (even though we hadn't seen any movie yet).

There was a pre-party before the screening, which surprised André and me who are use to after-parties not pre ... we were both surprised and happy talking while listening DJ Henry living the evening up with records from the very best 60's.

Some drinks later we were called up to go downstairs to enjoy the videos...

Dino Dinco talked for a little while about the series and took some pictures of us for Diane (I'm the one in the middle of the third row... looking lame and ugly, o well..), then the screen was lighten up and the videos showed up ...

Alexander McQueen for SHOWstudio (who created on-screen-live a groom/bride costume with paint, fabric and glitter, this was probably my favourite one), Maison Martin Margiela, Jeremy Scott, TwoTom, VPL ...

all these designers and some more were featured in all kind of videos; long or short, funny or disturbing, some were super experimental and interesting, other not so, but in general the quality of them was very good.
Only the people at the screening disappointed me a little ... but Dino Dinco explains it better and funnier in Diane Pernet's blog.

Saturday, October 06, 2007

Back and Happy

I have had 5 amazing days in Puerto Rico with my mom ... amazing beaches, incredible music, good food and best of all, the PEOPLE.
Fashion news ready to come, meanwhile, let's have some view to the most wonderful beach I've ever been in my life... Playa Flamenco (Flamenco Beach) in Isla Culebra (Snake Island).













me













my mom

Monday, October 01, 2007

Puerto Rico, There We GO

I'm going to Puerto Rico for 5 days, back next Saturday the 6th.
I decided not to take my computer with me for the first time in years ... I need to relax and have some fun. And rest my eyes in the meanwhile ...

Loads of Love,

x

Saturday, September 29, 2007

Mario Sorrenti in Front Of The Camera Looks Damn Good

Today I bought the latest issue of Vogue Homme International with American actor James Franco on the cover.
Flipping through the magazine, which is covered with interesting interviews, amazing images and lots of hot men, i stumbled upon an article on photographer Mario Sorrenti.

Editor-in-Chief Olivier Lalanner interviews the Italian-born photographer and the pictures that accompanies the interview couldn't be more surprising .... as they show Mario in front of the camera, not behind as usual, and ...
A.- They show how damn good looking Sorrenti was.
B.- They show Kate Moss as quite a good photographer ... because she was the one who took these amazing images...


Q: Which woman most impressed you?
A: Probably Kate Moss. We met when I was nineteen and she was seventeen. It was an aesthetic shock. She was the most beautiful woman I've ever seen. I took endless shots of her when we were together and even now I never get tired of photographing her. [...]

Friday, September 28, 2007

Ligia Dias

I want my jewelry big, chunky and experimental, that's why I can't stand for myself pieces from Chopard, Tiffany's and the like.
That's why I love Paris-based jewelry designer Ligia Dias, who collaborated with Rei Kawakubo for her AW06-07 Comme des Garçons collection, and has just launched her newest collection of pieces inspired by the Bauhaus artist Annie Albers.


Gómez; Cool Designs Straight from Spain

When people think of countries with fashion talents, very few think of Spain.

But France's southern neighbor has given to the fashion world geniouses like Balenciaga, Manolo Blahnik or Miguel Adrover... so I guess there's something to look after in it.

El Ego de Pasarela Cibeles, a fashion catwalk who was born to be a platform for upcoming designers, brings twice a year the work of the latest and younger talents in the country, and this past edition, one of my faves, Gómez, showed his collection for SS:08 The Indian Summer.

* stills by Eric



Thursday, September 27, 2007

I'm Missin' You Already

Friends and Best Dressed peeps in town Sonia and Coke are leaving this Big Apple that is going to be even bigger and lonelier without them ...
She is going to Tokyo and he's back to Spain.
I'm gonna miss you buddies :'-(


It Looks Like Vintage but It's Brand New

Taking a walk for the East Village one random day in May, I stumbled upon a vintage clothing store I hadn't seen before, D/L Cerney. (13 E 7th Ave)
Out of curiosity I rang the bell and a very nice lady led me in.
I started to check around all the 40's-like dresses, the amazing men ties and the shoes, all impeccably preserved to be vintage.
Everything seemed so new to me I couldn't help myself but asking the woman on the counter if those things were vintage or otherwise .. quite a stupid question if you think about it.

Linda St. John, such was the name of the woman, she later introduced herself to me, explained how those dresses I was enjoining were not vintage but brand new and designed for her.

Being a big fan of the 40's as I am I started to talk to her right away and soon we found we had so many things in common.

I spent in her store the whole evening, not less than 2 hours, listening to her stories from the East Village in the 80's, when she opened the store together with her husband.
We talked about politics, Art, fashion... she told me she couldn't understand the reason why current designers design unflattering clothing, hiding the women's body in layers of fabric that don't make any sense ... I tried hard to explain the reason why but of course, she knew how to backed up her position... there was nothing I could do.

Later she introduced me her 1,000 Skinny Girls, a collection of 1,000 rag dolls made out of rags and wire, dolls that have been traveling for different shows around the country. They are sooooo lovely I wanted to take them all, even though they're not in sale. And she gave me and signed her book Even Dogs Go Home To Die ...

If you happen to be in the city, check this store out, it's such a gem. And if you are a wardrobe designer, do not hesitate to come here for 40's stuff.
It was one of those days you leave home rather bored and arrived pretty excited.

Wednesday, September 26, 2007

Bobble-Bee Featured in Vogue Girl Korea

... and the most amazing thing is that no one from the mag contacted me to tell me so!
The editor of Feet Man Seoul, a Korean street fashion magazine, e-mailed me one day mentioning that he saw my site featured in the Vogue Girl Korea of August 2007 and wanted to drop a line introducing his own project ... I said Vogue what?? ... it just blew my mind !! ...

It is quite flattering and nice that a publication such as Vogue thinks of my blog as to be featured in a Fashion Bloggers' special, so it is quite a mystery the reason why they didn't contact me to let it me know... I would have been so glad if they'd do ! ... in any case, if they are reading me right now; THANKS for choosing my blog, and big thanks to feet man Seoul for the heads up and the translation of the article, that follows ...

PATRICIA YAGUE

ABOUT HER
Patricia is both the editor of a fashion magazine called Milkshake Chocolate, and is also a stylist. But netizens know her better as "Bobble Bee." If you're a person who likes exploring fashion blogs, her site is worth visiting.

TYPE OF BLOG:
This is a blog that would be beneficial to a person interested in all kinds of fashion topics. Patricia doesn't just work on her own projects, but the site is also full of information on fashion places all over the world, from exhibits to street fashion, hot places, the streets, and the works of new artists. The good thing about her site is that it's updated nearly every day with all kinds of news and other topics.

PS: My blog was featured together with A Cup Of Jo, Happy Cavalier, Henners and Bruna

Monday, September 24, 2007

God Saves the Queen

There was a time when celebrities didn't exist the way we know them now. I mean, celebs were the Queens! The Kings, the Counts... the mistresses, (Madame de Pompadour, anyone?).
The museums show us the magnificent dresses and garments that those people wore. And movies put them in motion, which is always more exciting. I discovered fashion history through movies, they 'told' me that people back in the days didn't dress the way I do now. And that was such a discover. Since then, as I mentioned it before, my love for movies that happen in old times is a devotion.

One of my all times fave is Shekhar Kapur's Elizabeth, with Cate Blanchet as Queen Elizabeth I and Joseph Fiennes as the Queen's favourite.
I saw that movie when it came out in theaters like 10 years ago... and I decided to rent it now that Cate is thinking to act in the sequel. Needed to refresh the memory.

Alexandra Byrne designed the costumes for this movie, and she did such a job.

Elizabeth I, The Virgin Queen, was daughter of King Henry VIII of England, and as he, a big passionate of Fashion and Arts in general, giving name to what some people consider the Golden Age in English History, the Elizabethan Era, with geniuses around like Shakespeare, Francis Drake or Robert Greene.

The XVI century was a rather extravagant period in Fashion, and people like Elizabeth helped to it. Her love for chunky and outlandish jewelry was very well fed, and sometimes in some of her portraits, you can barely see the gown for all of the jewels, embroidery and decoration applied. There is a great and very expensive book with the inventory of the Queen's wardrobe, Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd by Janet Arnold, illustrated with photographs of portraits, minatures, tomb sculptures, engravings, woven textiles and embroiders.

Another important figure in the movie is Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, the Queen's favourite, played by Joseph Fiennes, who, physically speaking, I never liked, but with this film I will do an exception ... Yummy. Hot Hot Hot!

His wardrobe is not as flattering though, as men at the time decided to wear some kind of ridiculous short pants that made their legs short and too feminine, the infamous paned slops ... but still.
Rent the movie and Enjoy!

Sunday, September 23, 2007

Sexy and Cute can Live Together

I don't know why but as soon as my dear one leaves town I get obsessed with lingerie that I wouldn't otherwise. I guess I somewhat feel this is the best moment to prepare a nice surprise for his come back ...
Jen from Sleep Deprivation and Stories of my Bullshit Youth keeps me updated with sexy and kick-ass lingerie, but when she's not giving me tips, I myself come to the rescue. Made by Noemi is a Stockholm-based men & women underwear & accessories fashion label founded by designer Noemi Ivanova.
Her latest collection of underwear for ladies is superb; foxy and cute, two opposite worlds that the designer has put together like anyone else.
Now that he's away I'm ordering the Pink Champagne Body and hopefully it gets home in time to welcome my beau ...

Irreconcilable Lines

Osaka-based fashion label Farahbella will show their SS:08 collection during Paris Rendez-Vous Femme (4-7 October, 2007).
The collection, Irreconcilable Lines, has some very nice pieces like the green long dress and the mom-shaped black pants... I'm very into mom-like shapes these days for some reason. It's been so long since we don't wear shapes like that that i'm craving for new stuff, even if the new stuff reminds me my mom when i was young. I love it.

Body Fuzion; Aerobic and other 80's Stuff

The 80's were the decade of aerobic, (yoga? no thanks), leotards and Reebok Freestyle ... Drew Barrymore never looked so fun.

Saturday, September 22, 2007

Dekaibrands, Kylza Ribas and Fashion from the Outside

It gives me great pleasure to find hidden fashion treasures when I travel; stores with merchandise I haven't seen before, designers or designs that any fashion catwalk has offered me yet, fashion facts that any book has explained to me ... it makes me realize that fashion is a part of human culture and not a part of Paris or London's market.

Massah Kaikai had a very similar thought...

Massah sent me an email during fashion week about her soon-to-be-launched fashion business Dekaibrands, a personal project that was born after two trips, one in Morocco and the other in Brazil, when she decided to support young designers from burgeoning fashion capitals around the world.
She was showing for the first time the work of Brazilian designer Kylza Ribas and invited me to attend the event.

The date changed a couple of times but finally, last Wednesday Sept 19, in the impressive pent house of The Time Hotel in Manhattan, the event took place.
The work of Kylza is very elaborate and I was amazed by the explanation of how some of those dresses were made and how much time it took to finish them.
Her collections, (she brought samples from all of them), are very different from each other, so that sometimes they seem designed from completely different designers.
She explained to me, half in Portuguese half in Spanish and half in English, with the help of her mother, that for each collection she takes a subject to develop, which is what everyone does, but in her case, I can tell, she really means it: everything is so that subject, that any past inspiration is just forgotten.

Her fall-winter 07-08 collection Pieces of Time was my favourite, but I wonder if that was because it's the most "European"-like, which gives me very little credit if I'm trying to sell my open-minded view of fashion... o well...

Here samples of Pieces of Time and The House.