The great Hollywood costume designer Edith Head once wrote: "One hundred years ago, every woman wore a hoopskirt, she had no choice; seventy-five years ago, every woman wore a bustle. Today, a woman can look any way she wishes -if she knows how, if there is someone to help her" (The Dress Doctor -1959- page 21).When I read such a statement I got very surprised and immediately thought, "I'm sure that was the way 50 years ago, now not anymore... no ones needs advise, we all are independent and wear what we please"... Was I right?
Being a magazine whore and trying to collect as many magazines as possible, from any period of time, made me noticed that no matter the year in the cover, all magazines have something in common; they tell women what to wear.What-to-wear in regard of the situation we are about to face (a job interview, a blind date) or the person we are about to meet (mom, dad, a boyfriend), what-to-wear when we are happy or sad, at home or at the office...
It seems we really need help... Really?
For many centuries women's roles were severely limited by society's concepts of male supremacy and female inferiority. [...]
Fashions of the times [XIX century] didn't help either. Voluminous, billowing skirts hampered movement, and corsets caused dizzy spells and fainting.
A woman's priority in young adulthood was to find a husband, and after doing so, raise a family and run a well-kept household. [...]
The male-dominated social order dictated that women be meek and obedient "domestic creatures," for the most part confined to housewifery and raising of children, deferential to men, and financially dependent on the husband. These very definite ideas about a woman's part in the overall scheme of things were responsible for the restricted part women played in their world. "...[A]n exclusively nineteenth century phenomenon among women... developed as a result of the concept of the 'woman's sphere,' whereby the woman's role in life was strictly limited to home and family. [...] ". (Muhlenfeld) " >> source
Although the text was written with reference to women in the XIX century I found those matters timeless...
For centuries women haven't been able to study, to work, to do any sports, to be part of any political or cultural event. They were imprisoned in their own home and with time in their hands, rich ladies decided to use it to embellish themselves and to find new methods to improve their natural beauty; they invented in the solitude of their homes new fashions, new hair-dos, new beauty products and techniques... And to do so they used other women (sisters, mothers, friends) in this ritualistic grooming—that potent, mutual currency of female friendship.
It would be a facile argument to say they did so to impress their husbands, "masters" of their house and world. But we all know very well how much we like to dress for other women, the ones who will understand if what we're wearing is faux or not, if the bag we're carrying is Chanel, Prada or Lanvin.
If we would dress for men only we would be naked or with just a mere brassiere. Instead our fashions are very elaborate and the highest the fashion the more knowledge you need to know what's going on.. and really, how many men have the knowledge?
It would be wrong too to accuse them of being frivolous for acting in such a way. Now we can work, do sports, be part of political and cultural events and we do not have spare time in our hands but still, we use the little we have to embellish ourselves and... write blogs about it.
Although I don't post about my outfits or my beauty secrets and i don't follow what others do, I might be a rareté, what kind of woman am I?, because they get the most comments, they get the most love&hate, they are like blog-celebrities and I have to admit that when I started to post some pictures of myself my stats began to rise up like froth.
We women definitely like to see each other getting dressed and looking nice and neat.
It is then something on our DNA I guess and it will take years or maybe never, to erase that love for sharing fashion and beauty between each other, for telling each other what to wear, and what's best, for accepting so.
Oh, and I can not forget to mention the dressing-up syndrome that we all suffer since we are little girls (Lula magazine wouldn't exist if we wouldn't suffer from it); we love to dress up together, to put make up on our best girl friend... so i wonder if this is the real love we all share. :)
naomi campbell + kate moss / edith head + gloria swanson






9 comments:
Great post! When my sister was little she loved to put on an old ratty wig and a big hat and call herself "a fancy lady." LOL.
wow.. ahora no tengo tiempo de leerlo pero lo haré en cuanto pueda, porque parece super interesante
This is wonderful work, Miss BB. Well developed and insightful and elucidating.
There are many interesting points here, but the one that really struck me was bonding over cosmetic. I do this with a friend and in some ways the cosmetic item (and secondarily fashion) is really just a metaphor for the beauty of the friendship.
Anyway, you do not need to post pics of yourself, or to do anything other than what you are doing. This post was an example of why.
Once again, this is excellent. Dictating what to wear is a commonality of all magazines...I wonder what was your opinion of Lula Magazine? I was looking at it in the bookstore about a month ago, and I'm a bit skeptical...
Sorry for commenting twice, but I also wanted to add that i have a huge problem with the language of trends...
wendy: ;)
suzanna: THANKS SO MUCH ! thanks for the comment, this post took me HOURS and i was trying to cut cut cut because long posts can be boring as hell if your English is not catchy and fluid... and mine is everything but that.. augh...
riz: i must say i like Lula a lot. probably because i had a very "boy-ish" childhood, im the only female in my family with three brothers, so looking at things "girly" make me smile.
I also think theyr look is very well developed, the whole magazine has a very nice art department, the art director is really fantastic, you get what they sell, no less no more.
[BTW} i dont mind when people comment twice... i think is great :)
What do you mean with the language of trends ?
about the stats rise when posting outfit pictures: i realised that, too. people def are a little voyeuristic
i consider myself being independent enough to decide what to wear on my own. i hate it when people say "oh that is so trendy right now". and if it is in VOGUE, then you HAVE to like it. nevertheless, i am inspired by the magazines or what others wear, only it does not so much depend on trends. but the result is basically the same.
it's interesting how this modern day love of playing dress up evolved from a condition that actually restricted us women. for all my feminist tendencies, i think today's version of the activity is a legitimate joy unto itself. i don't care much for mainstream magazines that tell us how to dress, but i do like sharing with and finding inspiration from others. patricia, this was a wonderfully written post. your blog is actually one of my favorites! i don't care that you never post pics of your style (though that one time you did was awesome!); your style as seen through the art, history and critique that you share is more than enough for me.
(sorry for commenting so late!)
Oh Dreamecho. thanks so much!! ^_^
I promise i will post more pics of my style in the future :)
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